As the name suggests, originated from the city of Kota in Rajasthan, Kota Doria Saree is unique apparel with the distinctive square checked pattern. These kota sarees are usually weaved using two types of fabrics fibers – cotton and silk, although nowadays you will also see such sarees made with a translucent muslin material.
Kota is a small town situated in southern parts of Rajasthan which are quite popular on the world map due to its magnificent weaves and low yarn fabric. One of the reasons behind the glory is the perennial river Chamber. Due to the moist air, black soil and lush green plants, this area produce an exceptional quality of cotton. Apart from Chanderi and Maheshwar in northern India, Kota is a renowned city known for producing fine count cotton.
Also known as Kota Dori, or Kota-Masuria, these sarees are a trademark of expertise and artistry. ‘Dori’ means thread in Hindi and Kota has several units which are famous for making fine muslin sarees. Recently even Muhammadabad Gohna and Mau cities in Uttar Pradesh have started to gain popularity for this outfit.
Made of pure cotton and silk, they have square-like designs, khats. This chequered and fine weave looks magnificent and also doesn’t weigh much. You might wonder why the artisans use two types of fabrics to weave these sarees. There is a reason. Although silk fiber provides shine and softer look, it is not very strong. Hence to increase the strength of the fabric, cotton fiber is also used in the weave.
At times, onion juice and rice paste are carefully smeared to make the yarn strong during the yarn making process. It lends strength and touch of finishing.
Did you know that even today there exists a small village, Kaithoon, twenty-two kilometers away from Kota city where you can find the real Kota saree which is crafted in a tedious, laborious way in the same manner that was used 250 years before? Produced manually, this sarees take time and even though Kaithoon has around twelve hundred looms. A single loom can weave just about five sarees a month, hence sixty sarees a year from one loom.
It is only in recent times, that Indian art lovers have discovered the village of Kaithoon.
This unique and almost transparent weave speaks of a distinct tale of the textile industry. Woven on a traditional pit loom, the checkered design of the saree gives it a transparent look and makes one feel delicate and feminine once worn. Once weaved, it is spread in the lawns where the fabric and colors get dried and ultimately the sari reaches to you, lending a dreamlike surreal look.